Light, refreshing ceviche beats the heat of standing over a stove
From the July 2018 issue
By July, many home chefs dread standing over a hot stove, and the appeal of outdoor grilling has melted with the heat. Enter ceviche, seafood that “cooks” in citrus juice and is served cold. The dish is a favorite at Egg, a restaurant on the circle in Rehoboth Beach.
Owned by Missi Moore Postles, Egg bucks the norm when it comes to the expected breakfast and brunch offerings. The ceviche there — served with avocado toast — is one example. Another is The McQuay, which honors the building’s former owner, the late Butch McQuay, who ran the iconic McQuay’s Market there for many years.
The dish features barley sauteed with fresh spinach, roasted beets, carrots and panko-crusted goat cheese — all topped with a sunny-side-up egg and served on toast. Pair it with a breakfast margarita made with orange marmalade or a bloody mary garnished with sriracha-candied bacon.
Postles filled a niche on Rehoboth’s dining scene, which already had multiple spots serving standard breakfast fare as well as creative fine-dining restaurants. The New Castle native had been kicking around the idea for an esoteric brunch restaurant for some time. When she relocated to the beach in 2015 to live with future husband Mike Postles, it was time to put her concept to the test.
“I’m going to jump off this bridge,” she told herself about the life change. “I’m moving down, and I better find a location and get this restaurant open. If you do it right, they’ll come.”
Evidently so: Egg, which opened in November 2016, consistently has a line of people waiting for a table or barstool.
Postles refuses to call herself a chef, but the menu features her recipes and she oversees the kitchen. “I have such an amazing staff — they’re good, solid people back there.” The team’s competence has been an asset while she’s been undergoing cancer treatment. “I preach consistency, and they keep it consistent,” she says.
When it comes to ceviche, freshness also counts. Common in the coastal areas of Latin America, the dish is made with raw fish that cures in lemon or lime juice. It might include chopped onion, cilantro, hot peppers and salt.
If you’re skittish about raw fish, you could instead use cooked shrimp and crab. Just note that it might lack the same flavor and texture as the traditional version.
CRAB AND SHRIMP CEVICHE
1 pound of wild-caught large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 pound of jumbo lump crabmeat
2 tablespoons of minced shallots
½ cup of minced red and yellow bell peppers
1 finely minced jalapeño pepper (optional)
½ cup of minced grape tomatoes
2 tablespoons of minced cilantro
1 cup of fresh squeezed lemon juice
Salt to taste
Dice the raw shrimp into bite-size pieces and place in a large bowl.
Add the shallots, minced peppers, tomatoes, cilantro, lemon juice and salt (and jalapeño, if desired). Stir well to mix. Add the crabmeat, and gently blend with the ingredients — don’t break up the lumps of crab. Refrigerate for at least four hours or overnight. Shrimp should turn as white as though they were cooked. Serve with avocado toast points or tortilla chips and a lime wedge for garnish.
Note: There are many recipes on the web for the avocado toast, which is usually mashed, seasoned avocado on toasted bread. Take your pick on foodnetwork.com.